Inside the Italian Factories Turning Raw Fibers Into Soft Cashmere for Falconeri

Our latest "Factory Tour" takes us to the Biella and Avio facilities where the brand manages nearly every stage of the its cashmere production.

Welcome to Factory Tour, where we take you inside the manufacturing facilities of our favorite brands to reveal how the products we buy are actually made. Nestled in the northern Italian countryside, brushing shoulders with the Alps, are Falconeri‘s two cashmere factories in Biella and Avio. There, the 26-year-old Italian fashion house oversees nearly every stage of its production process. This thorough oversight is intentional, as the time-honored craftsmanship characteristic of Falconeri’s cashmere garments doubles as the antithesis of fast fashion. “Falconeri believes that modern luxury is defined by authenticity, exceptional craftsmanship, versatility and longevity,” Gianni Forlini, chief business officer of Oniverse U.S., tells Fashionista over email. “From the selection of cashmere in Mongolia to the specialized expertise of the teams in Biella and Avio, every stage reflects the brand’s commitment to the quality of natural materials and the enduring value of Italian textile know-how.” Raw cashmere at Falconeri’s Biella factory.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri View the 2 images of this gallery on the original article Falconeri, which joined Oniverse Group (the parent company of Calzedonia and Intimissimi) in 2009, begins its cashmere journey in Mongolia, where it sources between 600,000 and 700,000 kg of raw cashmere fiber each year. Obtained by combing the soft and delicate “duvet” undercoat of Hircus goats, the raw fibers then arrive in Biella, a historic textile district, where all of Falconeri’s cashmere is produced. There, more than 57 specialized employees oversee multiple production stages spanning quality control, dyeing, mixing, spinning, winding and twisting. Of note, the spinning process used in Falconeri’s Biella factory has remained largely unchanged for more than 80 years. “Biella is internationally recognized for its centuries-old textile heritage and highly specialized expertise in processing premium natural fibers,” Forlini says. “The knowledge developed and passed down through generations makes it an ideal environment for transforming raw Mongolian cashmere into refined yarn while preserving the fiber’s natural softness, length and strength.” Raw cashmere at Falconeri’s Biella factory.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri Each cashmere lot (about 1,000 kg) is tested for consistency, regularity and strength, in addition to being sorted into shades of white, light gray and brown. The fibers are dyed to fit Falconeri’s color palette, then mixed inside temperature-controlled containers with water and a mineral-based oil to help preserve their length and integrity. About a week later, the fibers enter the spinning stage to clean and detangle the raw material. The cashmere can be carded for softer yarns found in Falconeri’s Ultrasoft Cashmere, or combed for finer yarns as seen in its Ultrafine Cashmere. The cashmere winding stage at Falconeri’s Biella factory.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri Finally, the cashmere is ready for winding — using optical sensors to identify and remove imperfections, and then twisting — twirling individual strands together for stronger yarn. The fibers then head to Falconeri’s second factory in Avio, which sits at the foot of the Dolomites. This is where all of Falconeri’s pieces are assembled; approximately 7,000 garments are finished each day. First, each yarn is evaluated for color consistency, measurement accuracy and pilling performance to ensure cohesion. Shima Seiki knitting machines turn yarn into separate garment sections (a sleeve here, a back there), leaving skilled technicians to assemble each piece by hand. Once assembled, final checks include washing and finishing processes to boost softness. At Avio, it takes more than an hour to complete one Falconeri garment. A worker assembles a Falconeri garment in the Avio factory.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri “This close integration [between Biella and Avio] allows Falconeri to combine Italian craftsmanship and textile expertise with advanced manufacturing technology, while maintaining consistent standards across every collection,” Forlini says. Atop the Avio factory sits Falconeri’s style department, where the team designs its womenswear and menswear collections. Pattern making, prototyping, product development and garment construction all happen under the Avio headquarters’ roof, which helps streamline collections. Falconeri’s new Fall 2026 knitwear will “balance timeless elegance with modern relevance,” per the brand. Designs are inspired by the natural world, explored through earthy hues of brown and burgundy as well as rich textures. Looking ahead, Falconeri’s future collections will pivot to more genderless capsules. At Falconeri’s Avio factory, a worker in the style department sketches a design.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri Falconeri is increasingly emphasizing its Ultrafine Cashmere collection, which is made from two single strands of combed and twisted cashmere. Unlike carded cashmere’s softer texture, combing ensures a more durable yarn that resists pilling. The result? A lightweight cashmere (hence its “ultrafine” classification) that is also thermoregulating, meaning it helps maintain a balanced temperature regardless of the season. “This versatility challenges the traditional perception of cashmere as a material reserved exclusively for cold weather,” Forlini adds. A worker sews on a Falconeri label at the Avio factory.Photo: Courtesy of Falconeri While overseeing nearly every stage of production gives Falconeri a competitive edge in the knitwear market, this rare level of control also poses its own complications. “The challenge lies in the level of coordination and specialized expertise that this model requires,” Forlini says. “Cashmere is an exceptionally delicate natural fiber, and every stage must be carefully managed to preserve its length, softness, strength and consistency.” In practice, Falconeri seeks out skilled employees while continuing to invest in innovative research to ensure its quality standards are met. Since launching in 2000, Falconeri has taken its signature Italian craftsmanship global. Today, it operates more than 200 boutiques across 22 countries, and aims to manage eight stores in the U.S. by the end of the year. Despite this international growth, Falconeri’s ethos remains unchanged: “refined, versatile and made to be worn and appreciated over time,” per Forlini. View this post on Instagram Disclosure: Falconeri paid for Fashionista’s travel and accommodations to report this story. Fashionista’s audience includes 1 million site visitors, 110,000 newsletter subscribers and 4.74 million social media followers. Want to know how to reach them? Learn more.